The churches draw the tourists; the lack of hassle exudes the peace.

While any farenji on the streets of Addis is quick to grow fed up with the pubescent heckling, Lalibela’s mere 17,000 inhabitants seem comparatively more metropolitan in regard to their treatment of visitors than the capital’s smartly dressed urbanites. The shouts of “kayu” amongst the overflowing crowds of central Shewa give way to the tranquil sounds of highland birds and a light breeze ruffling the greenery shading ancient churches in perpetuity. Just a couple hours by plane, a refreshing world waits.

Descending the one main cobblestone road from Lalibela’s mountain pass entrance, I braced myself for a rush of youngsters to swarm me. But what met me instead were breathtaking views of surrounding rolling hills surrounding a seemingly ancient scene.

This is a welcome respite from similar wonders of the world where the locals inhabit a famous landmark that represents the sole reason for droves of foreigners. Take the other amazing rock structures in Asia and the Middle East: outside Cambodia’s Angkor Wat police have to beat away adolescents with wooden sticks; and Jordan’s Petra holds the danger of camel stampedes. While these countries boast vastly superior tourist infrastructures and Ethiopia ranks high in many travelers’ books for annoyances, Lalibela is one place the dynamics have being honed to provide a relaxing atmosphere.

According to one local guide, the combination of the efforts of the local tourist association combined with locals’ concentration on the religious aspects of the century old structures while respecting the positive impacts of tourists is the right mix. But it may just be the relative obscurity of a town so isolated.

Sure, there are bound to be some kids asking for a donation to buy a soccer ball with a pitch that could put a used car salesman to shame, but tourists are more or less left alone to enjoy the peace that should be part of a vacation in a pristine mountain setting.

Not everything is smooth of course. Inside the churches flash photography is forbidden. If adhered to, which is not always the case – this presents difficulties for the average camera and camera operator to capture the magic on film to take home. Though it is the dark dank atmosphere that gives these churches the appeal, some compromise for the people who traveled thousands of miles to view the wonders could be in order. But with a little creativity, a shot of light beaming through a cross carved into the wall of the ancient structures to illuminate gabi-clad worshippers is the unspoiled dream of many journeyers to the site.

But it is also these people that draw a second thought from visitors. Upon examination most are actually quite elderly. It is curious to ponder on how the rate at which the people using this church for worshipping purposes will match up against the sure to increase masses of tourists that will flock to Lalibela in the future. World over, many claim religious observance is either decreasing or changing form in newer generations. Will the youth grow into habits to sustain the aura of a functional place of religious observance? I for one hope so such that future generations will be impacted by the place as I have been.

Comments (0)